Vienna degli Ultravox? No, Vienna la capitale dell’Austria. Ci sono stata prima di andare a Praga. Stesso viaggio, tra fine luglio e i primi di agosto.
L’arrivo a Vienna fu surreale, per me che ero al secondo volo in aereo, della mia vita. Eravamo sopra l’aeroporto: Vienna-Schweschat è il nome, e siccome la pista era occupata, sorvolavamo in tondo in attesa di avere il permesso di atterrare. Mi sentivo tanto un rapace prima dell’agguato.
Alla fine ce la facemmo a scendere. Aereo, navetta, centro-città, taxi e albergo. Albergo grazioso, camera quasi grande. Era passata abbondantemente l’ora di pranzo e avevamo davvero fame. Ecco, posso dire che la carne che mangiai quel primo giorno di permanenza, buonissima e tenera, non l’ho più mangiata in nessun altro posto per molti anni.
I giorni a disposizione erano 4; molto pochi per una capitale ma riuscimmo a visitare, goderci la città e anche ridere. Ridere capitò durante il giro di una parte del centro storico in carrozza. C’erano due possibilità: giro corto e giro lungo con sosta in una famosa birreria. Ora, io non bevo birra, proprio non mi piace, ma ci sembrava folkloristico e quindi scegliemmo questa opzione.
Dunque individuammo una carrozza libera e fissammo con il cocchiere il tipo di tragitto. Bel pomeriggio, sole e caldo quanto bastava e partimmo per il giro. A metà ci fu la famosa sosta. Io rimasi su, gli altri due scesero ad assaggiare questa birra viennese. Fin qui tutto normale, ma quando riprendemmo il percorso ci accorgemmo che i passanti ci guardavano e ridevano di gusto. Non capivamo fino a quando la testa del cocchiere non si piegò in avanti. E fu tutto chiaro: dormiva perché era mezzo ubriaco, una cosa a cui non avevamo badato durante la contrattazione. Se per ogni turista che sceglieva il giro lungo, beveva anche lui una birra, immaginate un po’ come arrivasse a sera. Il cavallo lo sapeva bene e percorreva il tragitto da solo, a memoria. Finì che ridemmo pure noi finché non tornammo alla base.
Un’altra cosa che mi ricordo con piacere fu una vecchietta, molto fine e carina, che suonava il sax all’ingresso della Kärtnerstraße, la strada pedonale che ha 5 punti focali. E’ una strada molto grande, con ristoranti, negozi lussuosi e appunto artisti di strada. Le strade pedonali si assomigliano un po’ tutte; questa ospita l’Haas-Haus, palazzo moderno che a vederlo per la prima volta, stona un po’ con l’architettura circostante, ma attraverso la sua facciata a specchio, si intravede il Duomo di Santo Stefano che è di fronte. Un bell’effetto. Questo Duomo è il più grande dell’Austria ed è qui che ho sentito una messa interamente in latino, per la prima volta. La seconda volta fu a Praga, dopo qualche giorno.
Graben e Kohlmarkt sono le strade più prestigiose della zona pedonale. Nella prima c’è la “Colonna della Peste”, eretta proprio in seguito all’epidemia che scoppiò nel 1687. Nella seconda, più stretta, esclusivi negozi di abbigliamento e gioiellerie e la storica pasticceria “Demel”.
Da qui poi, si accede all’Hofburg.
L’Hofburg è la residenza imperiale e insieme al Castello di Schönbrunn, ha rappresentato il centro del potere austriaco. Vi consiglio di visitare queste residenze, bellissime, insieme al Castello di Belvedere che (tra le altre cose) ospita un importante museo di arte. Io rimasi molto affascinata da tutto quello che vidi.
Invece non visitai, e quindi dovrò tornare a Vienna prima o poi, il Palazzo della Secessione. Si tratta di un palazzo-manifesto della versione austriaca del Liberty. Klimt e Schiele furono fra i primi adepti di questo movimento artistico, la Secessione appunto. L’architettura “troppo moderna” per l’epoca, fece arricciare il naso a molti. Oggi è uno dei luoghi più visitati dai turisti. Ha una cupola rivestita da 3.000 foglie di alloro di metallo dorato. Se qualcuno di voi lo ha visitato, lo scriva nei commenti.
I teatri più conosciuti sono due: la Staatsoper e il Burgtheater. A dir la verità sono teatri famosi in tutto il mondo. Io sono stata in uno dei due, ma non ricordo quale. Che vergogna!
Poi c’è tanto altro da vedere, ma a voi il piacere della scoperta. Ciao
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